Pencil Skirt Success

Body positive pencil skirt and creative, purple animal print, style at Making the Flame.

It’s finally happened! I made the pencil skirt of my dreams.

Body positive pencil skirt and creative, purple animal print, style at Making the Flame.

You’d never guess it, but I have a serious love for pencil skirts. So when I found a free pencil skirt pattern from Lekala, I was thrilled! And the fit of the muslin thrilled me, too. But over time I gained/lost weight, so I knew I had to redo this pattern.

Body positive pencil skirt and creative, purple animal print, style at Making the Flame.

Making a muslin of Lekala 5088 was a speedy affair. It’s a basic pencil skirt with a center back zipper and straight waistband. Even though it has four back darts instead of the usual two (which is great for ladies who are curvy in back), it sews up really fast. After the darts you sew three seams and a waistband and you’re done!

Body positive pencil skirt and creative, purple animal print, style at Making the Flame.

I’ve never been one to  SWAP — Sew With A Plan — but that is slowly changing. I had to buy some RTW pants earlier this summer, and they reminded me why I prefer me-made clothing. *wink* Though I’m trying to consciously build my homemade wardrobe, I’m still me! I like crazy prints and bright colors, even for pencil skirts. I plan to sew a million (ish) pencil skirts from quilting cotton because of the bright and colorful prints, the low cost, and the ease of sewing.

Creative finishing details on the perfect pencil skirt! Body positive sewing for the win at Making the Flame.

This purple leopard print fabric is a stretch woven that felt and behaved like quilting cotton. (Fun factoid: this is my fifth purple animal print garment! Leggings, two shirts, and a tunic were my first four.) For finishing, I  flat felled the side seams, pinked the remaining seams, and hand finished the waistband and hem.

Body positive pencil skirt and creative, purple animal print, style at Making the Flame.

Here are some tips on getting a perfect fit from Lekala: measure yourself in centimeters, not inches. Next, set most of the fitting options to normal or regular. When sewing for our bodies we’re hyper aware of our ‘deviations’ from the norm, but with Lekala it’s best to accommodate only the major ‘differences’. Too much tweaking can result in a distorted or slightly wonky pattern.

I also made a full butt adjustment in the back, and tapered the skirt hem by 2″. I like the slightly pegged look because it accentuates my curves while still being modest. I intend to wear these skirts in casual-to-slightly professional settings, not traffic stopping situations!

Body positive pencil skirt and creative, purple animal print, style at Making the Flame.

Overall, I love this skirt. It fits perfectly, and the pattern can be a block to refer to when sewing other straight/pencil skirts. It’s a great pattern to show off crazy fabrics, and it’s free!

Do you think you’ll try this, or other Lekala patterns? Feel free to use the fitting tips above and let me know how they work out for you!

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  1. Hi Ebi,
    I’d love to know what other Lekala patterns you’ve made and liked?
    I’m a quilter & just returning to sewing as my generous curves makes it hard to buy ready to wear clothes.

    I don’t want to spend much on patterns as I’m not confident of my dressmaking skills, it’s 30yrs since I last made my own clothes. Luckily I have a huge stash of quilting cotton to make Muslins with.

    1. Ooh, cotton stash! That sounds very handy. I’m currently working on 4383 (coat) and 4541 (sleeveless top); they’ve both been a lot of work for different reasons. 4383 is actually a pretty straightforward coat, but I decided to use a million different fabrics, none of which the pattern calls for. I altered 4541 based on my second Ella Top, which was a ton of work. But it’s a BANGIN’ design, and I’m looking forward to finishing it and sharing it on the blog.

      Links are below :)

      4383 coat pattern –
      sewing the 4383 coat –
      4541 sleeveless top pattern –

      I hope to use Lekala more in 2017. Hopefully there will be some winners I can recommend to you!

  2. Love the skirt and after a failed attempt at a pencil skirt, I have ventured to try again. I’m a curvy girl too and would love more info on butt adjustment…I think thats the next thing I need to master in my sew to fit quest…

    1. Hi Martha! Really glad to hear you’re making another attempt at a pencil skirt. A full butt adjustment is so necessary, but I’ve never seen it in any sewing book. What I do is add length at the center back seam, and occasionally width, too. Usually I add 1/2″ above the waist and 5/8″ below the hem. Every once in a while I add 1/4″ or 1/2″ width at the hip, which makes the upper part of the center back seam curvy (like us!).

      If I can whip up a tutorial, I will be sure to email you the link. Hopefully that will help you!

      1. Thanks for the full butt adjustment info.
        I plan to make that pattern & will certainly need that adjustment. I’d be happy to see the tutorial if you make one.

    1. Thanks for the kind words! Pencil skirts have long eluded me, too — I couldn’t buy one off the rack, either. Maybe your mom will make one (or more!) for you. :)

  3. The work you put into this skirt shows, Ebi!!I love it! It’s a little bit wild and little bit conservative. Great style combo.

    A well-fitting pencil skirt is an excellent block for pattern design. And, you are so right about quilting cotton as a perfect vehicle for skirtmaking play! Too bad I just donated 90% of my quilting cotton yardage.

    1. Thanks Najah! Especially since I re-learned good sewing habits from you :-p I also gave away a slew of quilting cottons, but that’s okay. New and better QC will find its way back to us when we have room in our stashes.

  4. Congratulations Ebi! So beautiful! You’ll get bunches of wear out of this. I love your fabric choice too. How fun would that outfit be with an accessory accent color of neon yellow. Wild! I’ve never tried Lekala. So good to know you have. Now I can come back and reference your notes when I do!

    1. Yay, thanks for the kind words Gwen! And the tip about yellow — I never wear yellow, but neons are on my list of things to try.

      Also, you have tried Lekala patterns — Bootstrap patterns are actually Lekala patterns with helpful info in English (from what I’ve learned in your blog posts). One day I may try a Bootstrap pattern to see if they’re worth the extra dough…in the meantime, my cheap little heart loves Lekala. :-p LOL!

  5. Beautiful skirt! You nailed the fit and the fabric is so fun! I’ve been wanting to try Lekala – happy to know this skirt pattern is free! Thanks for the tip!

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