Rawr (Butterick B6258)

makingtheflame Ebi Poweigha plus size sewing pattern fitting Butterick B6258 animal abstract print rayon knit black grey

Sooo…I love this pattern. You’re going to see a lot of it …. consider yourselves warned. *smile* I love it for its ease and simplicity, not it’s hack-ability. And oh, how simple it is! Of course, you can complicate it — I’ve since made two more of this shirt with neckband and sleeve design details. I may make one with a tiny pocket, and experiment with a boxy version inspired by the 80s off-the-shoulder style.

makingtheflame Ebi Poweigha plus size sewing pattern fitting Butterick B6258 animal abstract print rayon knit black grey

Anyway. This top is a major success. It fits! it fits!!!!!!

Historically, when making a top I only ever enlarged the biceps to fit my meaty arms. And that was always “enough”. But I still had the same wrinkles through the upper chest that I notice in RTW tops. There was always a chunk of extra fabric at the armhole which tapered to nothing at my sternum. I attempted to solve the problem by shortening the shoulder seam, shortening the bodice height, narrowing the neckline, etc, to no avail.

makingtheflame Ebi Poweigha plus size sewing pattern fitting Butterick B6258 animal abstract print rayon knit black grey

Finally I got wise and did a slash and overlap from the hem to the shoulder — tutorial to come — and IT WORKED. Words cannot express how pumped I am to have gotten rid of that excess fabric! Actually, as sewers I think you all know how annoying that extra smidge of fabric can be in the wrong place.

makingtheflame Ebi Poweigha plus size sewing pattern fitting Butterick B6258 animal abstract print rayon knit black grey

I guess this adjustment works because my shoulders are set back from my center collarbone. This creates a hollow at the front shoulder where the fabric bunches up. Additionally, I’ve long noticed excess fabric below my bust, running in a diagonal line to my side hip. This may be cause by the same thing: my center belly is much fuller than my side belly, so there’s excess fabric at the side. Maybe this is a plus size adjustment, since we have the most protruding bellies and center fronts in general?

makingtheflame Ebi Poweigha plus size sewing pattern fitting Butterick B6258 animal abstract print rayon knit black grey

I also did this adjustment in the back, to remove excess fabric from the side and to get the shoulders to match, and I did a slight swayback adjustment, too. This is my first swayback adjustment, and I really like the effect! I didn’t go for the perfectly fitted look because my back is fat — noooo need to accentuate that. Lastly, I shortened the sleeves. They’re still longer than I normally wear, but nothing crazy. I could probably remove another half inch. On the plus side, I find I don’t need to wear a bracelet with long sleeves!

makingtheflame Ebi Poweigha plus size sewing pattern fitting Butterick B6258 animal abstract print rayon knit black grey

My inner geek looooves pattern alterations! Any time I come across something in my own fitting that I haven’t come across in a book, I feel compelled to share. Also, as I mentioned above, this shirt is dead easy. There’s not much to say about the sewing of it. For this version I sewed a neckband, and it flips out a bit but I don’t want to tack it down. The fabric is a dreamy rayon knit with excellent recovery, softness, and drape. It was in my stash for awhile. Sewing up old stash pieces is so incredibly satisfying…

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8 Comments

  1. I definitely need to take that alteration into consideration. I had the same issue with a shirt I was making this weekend. Good looks.

    I love the fabric you used, and congrats on the fit!

    1. Wow, really? Hmmm, you definitely don’t have any protrusions. :-p I wonder what causes the need for it? Anyway, I’m working on the tutorial now and hope to have it up in the next few days. Hope it helps you!

  2. Love what you did with this blouse. We seem to have the same fitting problems so Iʻm glad for all your comments. Iʻm follow your flame and see where it goes – lol. Thank for a great post!

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