Sooo…I love this pattern. You’re going to see a lot of it …. consider yourselves warned. *smile* I love it for its ease and simplicity, not it’s hack-ability. And oh, how simple it is! Of course, you can complicate it — I’ve since made two more of this shirt with neckband and sleeve design details. I may make one with a tiny pocket, and experiment with a boxy version inspired by the 80s off-the-shoulder style.
Anyway. This top is a major success. It fits! it fits!!!!!!
Historically, when making a top I only ever enlarged the biceps to fit my meaty arms. And that was always “enough”. But I still had the same wrinkles through the upper chest that I notice in RTW tops. There was always a chunk of extra fabric at the armhole which tapered to nothing at my sternum. I attempted to solve the problem by shortening the shoulder seam, shortening the bodice height, narrowing the neckline, etc, to no avail.
Finally I got wise and did a slash and overlap from the hem to the shoulder — tutorial to come — and IT WORKED. Words cannot express how pumped I am to have gotten rid of that excess fabric! Actually, as sewers I think you all know how annoying that extra smidge of fabric can be in the wrong place.
I guess this adjustment works because my shoulders are set back from my center collarbone. This creates a hollow at the front shoulder where the fabric bunches up. Additionally, I’ve long noticed excess fabric below my bust, running in a diagonal line to my side hip. This may be cause by the same thing: my center belly is much fuller than my side belly, so there’s excess fabric at the side. Maybe this is a plus size adjustment, since we have the most protruding bellies and center fronts in general?
I also did this adjustment in the back, to remove excess fabric from the side and to get the shoulders to match, and I did a slight swayback adjustment, too. This is my first swayback adjustment, and I really like the effect! I didn’t go for the perfectly fitted look because my back is fat — noooo need to accentuate that. Lastly, I shortened the sleeves. They’re still longer than I normally wear, but nothing crazy. I could probably remove another half inch. On the plus side, I find I don’t need to wear a bracelet with long sleeves!
My inner geek looooves pattern alterations! Any time I come across something in my own fitting that I haven’t come across in a book, I feel compelled to share. Also, as I mentioned above, this shirt is dead easy. There’s not much to say about the sewing of it. For this version I sewed a neckband, and it flips out a bit but I don’t want to tack it down. The fabric is a dreamy rayon knit with excellent recovery, softness, and drape. It was in my stash for awhile. Sewing up old stash pieces is so incredibly satisfying…