I sewed my very first vintage pattern!
My style rarely veers toward vintage, but I had to have Simplicity 1590 as soon as I saw it. Both views of this pattern are so cute! For my first go ’round with it, I made view A.
Sizing on 1590 goes up to a 46″ bust, with a finished garment measurement of 50″ at the bust. By sewing 1/4″ side seams, that made for a 53″ bust — perfect to fit me with adequate ease. I prefer less ease in the bust, so the 1-2″ I got was just right for me. I didn’t have to trace or alter anything, just cut and sew. Yay!
I underlined the swiss dot with broadcloth, which allowed me to eliminate the facing pieces. However, the swiss dot was old stash, so when I ran out of it I had to improvise! I decided to cut the back piece from cotton jersey, and I’m really glad I did. It made this vintage top a little more modern, a little less ‘twee’. I think making the collarless version also helped make it look more like regular clothing. What can we call this style? Maybe subliminal vintage? :-p
Surprisingly, I really enjoyed sewing the front darts. I’ve seen darts like this on other patterns, and always wanted to give them a whirl. Happily, they were no more or less tricky than darts ending at a more traditional area, like a waist or side seam. The seam allowances were a bit fiddly, though, but nothing a little attention to detail couldn’t manage. I finished the back neckline in the jersey by turning it under and triple zigzag stitching over the turned area, and the front neckline with underlining (as mentioned above). The armholes I turned and stitched, and the hem I bound in pre-made bias binding. I just pinked the internal seams because this was technically a stashbusting wearable muslin.
Having a front zipper wasn’t the original plan. I tried on the top after it was mostly assembled and realized I needed the front openings to abut each other, not overlap. So, zipper to the rescue. But it was the wrong kind of zipper (non-separating) and I shortened it from the wrong side (the top). So I had to stitch a zipper stop at the top, and can’t open the bottom. Oops!
This is a cute top, in a cute color, but neither the style nor the color are really ‘me’. I wouldn’t call this a wadder, I’ve definitely worn it once or twice since making it…but just once or twice. I definitely need to shorten the back waist by 1.5″ at least, and add a smidge of width to the pattern pieces at the side seams, which would require adding width to a peplum piece lacking side seams. Eh. Do you ever make something and the only real value you get out of it is the skills you learned while making it? This is that kind of project.